THE CUT

The good cut for a diamond is not only defined by proportions, but also depends on people tastes. However, standards have been drawn to appreciate diamonds' measures.

Proportions are expressed in percentages and degrees. With a 100 %, which corresponds to the diameter of the diamond, we can determine:

- The height of the crown percentage

- The diameter of the table percentage

-The depth of the pavilion percentage

- The roundness percentage

- In some cases, the culet percentage

With good proportions, you can obtain a diamond with a brilliance that highlights the precious stone. The point is not the size of the diamond, but how the diamond is cut. It is the craftsman effort during every stage of the fashioning process that reflects the maximum amount of light back to the eye. Facets must be perfectly adjusted; a round diamond (brilliant full cut) has 58 facets.

Ideal proportion :

Some examples of cut:

THE COLOR

The color examination is essential in the appraisal of diamond gems because it explains the price differences from precious tones.

In general, the diamond gem colors can vary from a bluish to a yellowish white; the other colors are called fancy colours. Several ones can be distinguished: blue, green, yellow (but only when it is yellow canary) and brown (when it is intense). Light brown and champagne tones are less valued and their quotation follow the demand trend. Pink diamonds are the most prized diamond gems. In general, pink is a very light color but when it is intense, its value is equal or including higher compared with the value of a pure white stone. Yellowish or brown diamonds are the less valued. They are usually used in the industry sector. To assess without ambiguity the color of a diamond, namely to avoid as far as possible subjectivity, has always been a priority in the diamond industry. Grades in the color of a diamond range from D-N, beginning with D (white snow) and ending with N (dark yellow).

To have the first idea on the color of a diamond, put it on a very white piece of cardboard, folded in the middle. The stone culet has to be oriented towards the top, so that you can clearly notice the color. The examination consists in putting the cardboard next to a white and cold light source, by eliminating all the others outer light influences. It can also be done with the outer light, facing the North (without ever facing the Sun light) with a clear weather. An old process consisted in misting the stone with one's breath : you can observe the colors more easily as the condensation disappeared from the stone.

THE CLARITY

A diamond can have tiny crystals called inclusions. To appraise the purity of a diamond, the number and the position of the inclusions must be examined. Inclusions are distortions or imperfections produced during the development of a diamond in the ground, when it has been in contact with other materials, or when it bears temperatures' or pressure's changes. Indeed, it explains their diversity. To determine a diamond's clarity grading, you must examined it under a x 10 magnification by a trained, skilled eye. Thus, several international standards have been set: "flawless", "VVS", "VS", "SI", "I".

"Flawless": it corresponds to the highest grade of clarity. It means that, under a standard light, and observed with an x10-magnifying loupe, the diamond must show no inclusions.
"VVS (Very Very Small Inclusion)": in that case, the diamond shows very very small inclusions that are absolutely invisible to the naked eye and can hardly been observed with a x10-magnifying loupe.
"VS (Very Small Inclusion)": the diamond shows very small inclusions that are difficult to spot even with a x10-magnifying loupe.
"SI (Small Inclusion)": it is the inferior grade of clarity. It is used for precious stones with inclusions easily identified through an x 10-magnifying loupe.
· " Inclusions ":

- I 1 : That category includes diamond gems which inclusions, even if they can easily be observed, they can hardly be identified to the naked eye on examining them through the crown.

- I 2 : That category includes diamonds which inclusions, being numerous or not, but relatively significant, they can be seen to the naked eye through the crown.

- I 3: That category includes all the diamonds that have significant inclusions, and that are easily observed to the naked eye through the crown: the numbers of inclusions seriously alter the brilliance of the stone.

CARAT - WEIGHT

It is the most obvious factor. The unity of measure for diamonds is the carat, which corresponds to 0,20 grams.

Below a carat, we talk about hundredths. One carat is divided into 100 points so that a 0,25-diamond weighs 25 hundredths (or 25 points). The word "carat" comes from the carob seed, which was used a long time ago, in order to weigh gems.

The weight of a stone determines its size and its diameter. Here are some examples of the size of diamonds with different weights:

THE CERTIFICATES

If you are not a diamond expert and want to value the quality of a diamond, you need some basic information that you can find on the certificates. A certificate only has a value if it is accepted by the diamond industry.

The HRD (Diamond High Council - Hoge Raad voor Diamant), GIA (Gemmological Institute of America), IGI (International Gemmological Institute), AGS (Antwerp Gemological Servive), are very well estimated in Europe.

HRD and IGI give the advantage to propose closed certificates (sealt stones).

http://www.hrd.be
http://www.gia.com

Certificate example; click on the below picture :

LASER INSCRIPTION

Laser inscribe your diamond for additional security in the event of repair or loss.

Choose to inscribe your diamond with the grading report certificate number or with a personal message.

Check with your insurance company. A discounted premium may be available
with this added protection.

The inscription is located on the girdle of the diamond (its circumference) and will be noted on the appraisal certificate which accompanies your diamond.